Sitting in the airport waiting for my flight out of Nairobi, I’m on the precipice for the third time. This time it’s making the leap from the developing world of Kenya back into the developed and consumerist society of the US. I am excited to come home, but I have a feeling that the culture shock I experience when returning is going to be worse than that I felt arriving in Kenya. Nevertheless, it is about time to make the leap.
In this blog I’ll talk about what I’ll miss about Kenyan culture and want to take to the US, what I won’t miss, and what I’m looking forward to returning to in the United States.
I’ll also give a brief report on my recent travel along the Kenya coast.
Come Home With Me!
There are more than a few things about Kenyan culture that I will truly miss. I hope that the US can begin to emulate the following a bit more in the coming years/decades.
A love of Visitors, Especially Foreign
The night before I left Kakamega my host Uncle, Asamba, gave me this farewell:
“Mr. Kurt, know that we love you very much. Please greet your family for us and tell them that we love them very much, and we send our love through you. Even for strangers that you meet and do not know, we love them as well, because they are close to you and our love will pass through you to them.”
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| Joining the Shivachi's for a Family Photo. Day 1 of my stay with the family! |
Pretty amazing, right? It is this kind of unconditional love and warm attitude that encapsulates the Kenyan attitude toward visitors, especially those from other countries. They take pride in introducing guests to their culture and way of life. Every time I entered a home for the first time I was welcomed with warm smiles and handshakes. Even if I stated that I could only stay for a short time, tea would quickly be conquered from some area of the house along with some sort of small welcome meal. The Kenyan people really just love visitors, and they make time for them regardless of the situation.
Appreciation of The Simple Life
What would you call a house without running water, an oven, a mirror, or reliable electricity? Well, I would call it home. I have spent the last two months living with an amazing host family, the Shivachis. Even thought their home is relatively well developed compared to the surrounding community, it lacks a lot of the comforts I have come to enjoy in the US. But I love it! I have really learned to appreciate simple household activities like tying up cattle, spending hours cooking and eating nightly meals, taking bucket showers, and washing clothes by hand. People are happy, they truly appreciate what they are given, and life is simple.
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| Spending an evening making Chapati with my host brother, Shikoli |
Wait, You Know Sarah Palin?
I’m often amazed at Kenyans knowledge and interest in their political system. Kenyan newspapers and television news shows do a superb job of covering news in the country, exposing corruption, and reaching Kenyans from every social class. And their interest does not stop there. I would not be surprised if the average Kenya knew as much or more about current events in America than the average American. And the Kenyan would certainly know more about global current events. I wish I could bottle this global perspective and passion for domestic politics and distribute it to America. Maybe then we could get higher than 55% turnout for a Presidential election.
Ok, You Can Stay
I’ve had to adjust to a lot of things living in Kenya for three months. Some of those, like the above list, I would love to take home. And some of them, like the list below, I am happy to leave behind.
Sewage, Littering, and Potholes
I have covered this in previous blog posts, but it’s worth mentioning again. The roads in Kenya, especially Western Kenya, are in a perpetual state of disrepair. Roads connecting major cities may be paved and smooth (if you are lucky), but any smaller side-road is bound to be an uneven dirt road. Even when the roads are smooth, its common to find unlicensed and risk-taking drivers who make any road transport dangerous.
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| Here we are, about 30 minutes from almost getting hit by a passing vehicle due to bad roads/drivers. |
In addition to roads, I have a entirely new appreciation for the waste management and water/sewage systems in the United States. Even in cities with tap water it is used primarily for washing and cleaning, and is unsafe to drink if not treated. In the small community where I lived, Lusui, there is no such thing as plumbing, a garbage collecting service, or any sort of sewage treatment plant. The community is poor, rural, and yet to develop these complex and costly systems.
One For You, Two For Me.
Corruption in Kenya is one of the nation’s biggest problems. I have experienced the problem both firsthand and at the national level. Remember when I almost got arrested by a corrupt police officer in Nakuru? Ya, that was not fun. Well, my time in Kenya has also featured a scandal involving $50 million stolen from a fund for free primary education, 2 Kenyan Members of Parliament (basically Senators or Representatives) being identified by the US as “drug Kingpins”, and 6 of Kenya’s top politicians (even those holding current office!) being tried in the International Criminal Court for election violence in 2007. It would be a mistake to say that corruption is everywhere in Kenya, or that there is no corruption in the US. But it is an enormous problem here, and encountering it has been frustrating and stressful.
Bugs and Diseases
The warm climate of the equator here in Kenya is ideal for a number diseases. Out of the 11 interns in my group with the Foundation for Sustainable Development, three got malaria in time that we spent in Kakamega. Don’t be alarmed though. Malaria is like the flu. It’s treatable, common, and adult Kenyans consider it a normal part of life (and get it 1-2 times a year). Apart from that lovely parasite, almost everyone (including myself) was affected by the flu, diarrheal problems, or some other short term malady. This area of the globe is also home to numerous populations of flies, cockroaches, ants, and mice. I’ve become comfortable around all of these various bugs and diseases, but I’ll be happy to return to an area where I don’t have to worry about such illnesses or pests.
What do I really Miss?
Relative Anonymity
I am so excited to return to an area where I am not constantly started at and/or stereotyped. That sentence makes me laugh, because I never thought that as a white male I would encounter such a reality where I face the challenges of a minority. When traveling to new areas around East Africa, I can’t just be a normal person. Most people stare, shout “Mzungu” (white person), or attempt to overcharge me for whatever I want to purchase.
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| Do I stand out? Hmm... maybe just a bit. |
And being always stereotyped as a white rich person is almost as bad. After meeting me, most people assume that I have the money to help them in some way. Even after explaining that I am just a poor student and in Africa on a student scholarship, I am asked to connect them with friends in America who can assist them. The whole experience has given me an insight on the lives of immigrants and minorities in America, and it’s completely changed me perception of race and ethnic identities.
The People
The hardest question during my interview for the East African Internship came from Father Frank Murphy, himself a veteran of 15 years in Uganda. “Kurt, you are a very social and involved person, how do you think you will feel being isolated from this community and removed from anyone you know or are close to?”
I was completely taken aback. What was it going to be like? How was I going to survive? What was it going to be like not living with any of my closest friends, or for that matter, anyone of the same culture?
The answer is, it was hard. It was rewarding, challenging, life-changing, and one of the best experiences I will ever have. But it was hard. Now don’t get me wrong, I’ve made some amazing relationships with my Kenya host family, my fellow American and Canadian interns, teachers, and other people that I’ve met during my time in Kenya. I’m going to miss those people just as much as I’m currently missing my family in Mt. Angel and at the University of Portland. But I’m looking forward to being surrounded by familiarity and all of the friends and family I love and miss from home.
The Easy Life in The Fast Lane
Ever spent 2 ½ hours trying to print eight pieces of paper? If you have, you know it is not one of the life’s gems. Last week at the school I wanted to print out some papers and make a binder for the school’s business students. To do so, I traveled 30 minutes into town, spent an hour shopping for the needed things, used another 45 minutes finding a printer that worked, and then traveled the last another 30 minutes back to Lusui.
The point is, even simple tasks in the developing world can be lengthy and stressful. I’m looking forward to returning to a life where I can be consistently productive and have reliable and plentiful resources at my disposal.
Two Weeks of Travels
The past two weeks I’ve spent most of my time traveling along the coast of Kenya and Tanzania. Here is a visual of my trip. I’ll just give a quick play by play on each destination
Lamu- 4 days- Most Relaxing Place in the World
It really was. The mix of culture, island lifestyle, and great activities made this part of the trip one of my best travel experiences… ever.
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| I highly recommend the sunset sailing trips on Lamu. |
Malindi- 1 day-Beaches and Ice Cream
This stopover from Lamu to Mombassa wasn’t amazing, but we did sample some delicious local ice cream and the beach was beautiful.
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| Maria Chiochios has amazing foot-handwriting! |
Mombassa- 3 days- Mzungus and Beach Dancing
The second biggest city in Kenya, we spent our nights dancing at a club/bar near the beach and sleeping at a beautiful small bungalow hostel.
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| Great drinks at Forty Thieves Bar and Restaurant, ranked as the 17th best bar in the world. |
Dar Es Salaam and Zanzibar- 3 days- Spices & Harry Potter
After a 12 hour bus ride we reaches Dar Es Salaam, and mananged to find a very Western Theatre showing the final Harry Potter movie. Amazing! Then a ferry to the island of Zanzibar, a fun Spice Tour and amazing food at the local night market, and back to the mainland.
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| The sunsets on Zanzibar are quite nice as well. |
Lushoto- 2 days- Marvelous Mountains
From Dar Es Salaam it’s back to Nairobi for the flight home. But I stopped for two days in Lushoto, Tanzania. It’s about halfway to Nairobi, and it’s a beautiful mountainous area in Northern Tanzania.
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| Hiking at the Irente Viewpoint in the Lushoto Mountains. |
I’ll finish up this series of blog entries with a general reflection on Kenya. Look for that in the next week. Excited to see you all soon!
